Can tile be installed over a randomly cracked concrete slab?
Yes. Crooked cracks can appear in concrete and are usually caused by ground movement or the curing process. Most of these cracks appear within a year or so after the slab has been poured. To prepare a cracked floor for tiling, install an isolation membrane that will isolate the tile from the concrete with a cushion of plastic-encased fiberglass fibers. The membrane will absorb the stress. Use a 1/8-inch notched trowel to spread a 30-inch wide layer of tile adhesive centered over the crack. Embed a 24-inch wide strip of isolation membrane into the wet thin-set. Force the membrane into the thin-set with a flat knife or trowel and squish the excess thin-set from the sides. Feather and thin the excess from the edge of the membrane out. Let the patch harden overnight. When you apply think-set over the floor, put a thinner layer over the patch by holding the trowel at a lower angle while passing over the feathered edge.
What advice do you have
for dealing with spills, spots
and stains in my carpet?
No matter how careful you are, spills happen. The trick is to attend to spots quickly, before they set into the carpet. If you have a Wet/Dry vacuum cleaner, they’re great for spot removal. Wet the area down and vacuum, using detergent sparingly, as needed. Remove solid materials with a spoon, spatula or dull-edge knife. Blot spills with clean absorbent materials, press hard and remove as much liquid as possible without rubbing. You can try using a spot removal solvent, but test it in an inconspicuous area first. If one spot removal solution fails, try another. Once the spot is removed, let the carpet dry, and then gently brush up carpet pile.
I would like to bring a new look to my wooden kitchen cabinets. Can they be painted, and if so, how do I start?
Painting cabinets is a smart alternative to replacing them. The right color scheme can update the cabinets and your overall kitchen. Decide on a palette that works with the walls. Even curtains or dishtowels can provide inspiration for a kitchen’s color palette. A semi-gloss is the most common finish used in the kitchen because it’s highly scrubbable, but not too shiny that it overtakes the whole room. A hi-gloss also stands up well to scrubbing and washing and is ideal for cabinets. Start painting by removing the cabinet drawers, doors and hardware. Lightly sand the cabinet surface dull, wash and apply a good primer coat. Lay cabinet doors flat and on a raised surface (such as two sawhorses). Paint the front and edges. Allow them to dry, then paint the back. Paint drawers, then the cabinet frames. You also may want to incorporate new cabinet hardware into your new look.
I am considering painting some woodwork in my home, do you have any tips on how to do it right?
Lots of homeowners are updating the look of their home by painting woodwork. However, it can be a challenge to get the paint to look smooth. Preparation of the surface and a good brushing technique are essential. I suggest using a high-quality latex paint, an eggshell or semi-gloss. The first step is to fill and smooth the woodwork. Wash with a TSP solution to remove grease and grime, then rinse well. Use a 2-inch, stiff putty knife to remove loose and cracked paint. For dents and chips deeper than 1/8 of an inch, use a two-part polyester resin such as Minwax wood filler to fix damages. For finer scratches and chips, use spackling compound, such as Ready Patch by Zinsser. Next, spot prime the filler and any bare wood with a latex primer. Lightly sand all areas that haven’t been scraped or spot-primed using 180-grit paper or a fine sanding sponge. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth and remove all dust. Caulk any long cracks or gaps using an acrylic latex caulk, wiping excess caulk with a damp cloth wrapped around your finger to produce a smooth, clean caulk line. Buy a good, quality brush. Quickly coat an area with several brush loads of paint, then blend and smooth it out by lightly running the unloaded brush tip over it — this is called tipping. Try to coat a whole board or section, but don’t let the paint sit more than a minute before tipping. Hold the brush at a 45-degree angle, set the tip down where you want to start and pull it gently over the surface with little effort. The goal is a uniform thickness, but not so thick as to run or sag. If the new color doesn’t hide the old, apply a second coat, rather than applying paint too thick. If the first coat looks streaky or transparent, a second coat is necessary. Let the first coat dry overnight, then lightly sand with 180- or 220-grit paper or a fine sanding sponge, wash the dust off, let dry and brush on another coat.
How do I estimate how much
carpet I am going to need?
Most carpet retailers and installers will measure rooms for you. So take advantage of their experience, efficiency and accuracy if possible. To get an idea of how much carpet you’ll need, multiply the length and width of each room in feet. Multiply by 1.1 for a safety factor Most carpet is sold in widths of 12 and 15 feet. Remember that irregular shaped rooms, wide spaces, hallways, closets and seams all add to the quantity of carpet required.
We installed a metal entrance door years ago, no complaints, its held up nicely except for the door bottom. It's become ripped and not in the best of shape. Can this be repaired or replaced?
Yes. Replacing the sweep is easy. The hardest part is taking the door off its frame. To remove it, take out the hinge pins or unscrew the hinges from the door, whichever is easier. Once the door is off, lay it on a pair of sawhorses and replace the sweep. Match the new sweep’s design, both the flange configuration and how it attaches to the door, to the old one. Some sweeps snap into place while others slide in. If you can’t find a matching replacement, there is a style that slips over the door bottom and is secured with screws.
I'm interested in replacing my drafty, old 1950's windows with new energy efficient windows. The space between the glass of the new windows is filled with argon gas. What is the purpose of using argon, and how long can I expect the thermal seal to last?
Argon belongs to a group of inert gasses. These gases are very stable and have low reaction rates to temperature change. Argon is used in the space between the panes of glass to slow down the rate of heat transfer from one pane of glass to the next. The air we breathe (a combination of oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen) allows the heat to move from one pane to another much faster that argon does. Most window manufacturer’s use argon and warranty their windows against failure for up to 20 years. The argon is sealed in place with special high-quality sealants placed along the edges of hollow aluminum spacers filled with a moisture-absorbing material to capture any water vapor that might find its way through the seal.
You always hear that one way to make your home more energy efficient is to increase it’s R-value? What does this mean?
R-value relates to thermal resistance, or the measure of a material’s ability to retard heat flow. An R-value represents the amount of time (in hours) that is required for one BTU to be transmitted through one square foot of a material (or structure) when there is a temperature difference of one degree Fahrenheit between the two surfaces of the insulation. Since R-values are a measurement of the ability to retard heat flow, the higher the R-value, the higher the insulation value. Materials that have the same R-value, regardless of thickness, weight or appearance, are equal in insulation value. In relation to your home, energy efficiency experts suggest that ceiling insulation in your home should be at least to an R-38 rating. Wall insulation should be at least R-11.
I have mold growing on the inside corners of my house, where two walls meet. Why does this happen, and is there anything I do to fix it?
Mold or mildew typically grows in a home where moisture is present. Your problem could be because of poor air circulation but it also could be uninsulated framing cavities at the corners or where interior walls meet exterior ones. These cavities are supposed to be insulated during construction, but sometimes are overlooked. During cold weather, the inside wall surface cools, moisture condenses and mildew grows. To fix this, drill some holes at 30-inch intervals up from the floor using a 3/8” drill bit. Angle the holes toward the middle of the corner. Spray a whole can of expanding foam into the first hole and let it sit overnight to finish expanding. The next day, fill the next hole with another whole can of foam and let it sit again. Spray about half of a third can into the last hole. If the hole is plugged the next day, you’re done. If not, spray in the rest of the can. Patch the holes and repaint. Other fixes to consider include using a dehumidifier, ceiling fan, air-to-air heat exchanger or more warm air vents to reduce the moisture in the air and to increase air movement.
How often do I need to clean out the rain gutters on my house? What's the best way to do it?
Rain gutters protect the siding, windows, doors and foundation of your home from water damage, so it's important to keep them working properly and clear of debris. You should plan to clean gutters at least twice each year, and more often if your roof is directly beneath trees. You can work from a tall stepladder or from the rooftop, if the roof has a very low pitch. Make sure you wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal parts or screw points sticking out of their troughs. Starting at the drain outlet at the low end of the gutter, use a narrow garden trowel to scoop out loose debris, working away from the drain outlet. Put debris in a plastic bag. Next, use an on/off high-pressure nozzle on a water hose to wash out each length of gutter, working toward the drain outlet. If necessary, use a stiff scrub brush to loosen encrusted dirt. If water doesn't drain freely through the drainpipes, try flushing debris down them with the hose. If that doesn't work, you'll have to get a plumber's auger (snake) to free and pull out debris from the bottom. Consider installing leaf strainers at the tops of the drainpipes to avoid this problem in the future. If you see areas where water is leaking through seams between gutter sections, mark the leak location with chalk. Allow the gutter to dry completely, then seal the leaks from the inside with gutter seal. If gutters don't slope properly at a pitch of one inch for every 20 feet of length, they won't drain properly toward downspouts. Add new hangers, or add new fasteners to support any sagging gutters. Another method used by some handymen to clear gutters on low-sloped roofs is to blow dry debris out of gutters with a leaf blower. If you use this method, make sure to wear goggles and a dust mask.
My garage door is getting noisier by the week. Is this common and what can I do to fix it?
The average garage door goes up and down more than a thousand times a year, so it's no wonder they get noisy and rickety over the years. I suggest spending 10 minutes each year doing some easy maintenance steps that will keep the door operating safely and quietly. Before you start working on the door, unplug the automatic door opener, if you have one. If the door is open while you're working on it, clamp a set of locking pliers onto the roller track to keep the door from dropping.
1. Look at the door's hardware and tighten all nuts and bolts.
2. Inspect and tighten roller brackets that hold the rails to support the brackets. Next, inspect the rollers for wear and tear. Nylon rollers can chip or crack when they get older while the bearings can wear out on steel rollers. You can buy replacement rollers at the hardware store and install them by removing and installing the roller bracket.
3. Inspect the lift cable for wear. Damage is most likely to be seen at the spot where the cable attaches to the bottom roller bracket. Look for broken strands. Clear away dirt from this area with an old toothbrush. If the cable looks like it needs to be replaced, call a garage door professional as this cable is under high tension and isn't a job for a do-it-yourselfer.
4. Next, lubricate the chain or the screw on the opener with spray-on white lithium grease.
5. Coat the overhead torsion springs or the extension springs mounted above the roller tracks with a lubricant/cleaner such as
WD-40, leaving the excess.
6. Replace the weather seal on the bottom of the door when it is brittle or worn. For a wood door - remove the old seal with a flat pry bar. Install the new seal with the wide angle of the flange facing to the inside of the door. Fasten the seal with one-inch galvanized roofing nails. Start by nailing one nail on the left, then pulling the seal across the door and nailing the right side. Then fill in the middle with nails, about 3 to 4 inches apart.
7. Test the balance of the door by releasing the garage opener handle and lowering the door halfway. A properly balanced door can hold the halfway position without riding up or falling down. If the door rides back up, the springs are too tight. If it falls, the springs need to be tighter. Call a garage door professional to adjust the spring tension. DON'T try to do this yourself.
8. Test the auto reverse feature of your automatic opener by putting a roll of paper towels under the middle of the door. The door should get no closer than one inch to the ground and should reverse direction within two seconds of coming to a stop. Door openers made since 1993 have photoelectric eyes mounted above the floor to reverse the door when movement is detected. If your opener is pre-1993, consider buying a new one that is much safer.
9. If you don't already have them, mount lift handles on both sides of the door for easy lifting.
10. If you have an extension-spring-type door, install a containment cable. These can be purchased for less than $5 at most hardware stores and can save people and cars from injury or damage. When an extension spring breaks, the spring and cable become a hazardous whip. Bolt one end of the cable to the upper rail bracket. Then feed the cable through the extension spring and bolt the other end to the upper support bracket. Make one loop of the cable around the bolt and secure it with a fender washer and locknut.
What is the correct method for attaching a deck to my house?
Proper construction from the beginning is the key to a beautiful and long lasting deck that won’t damage the house frame. A few things to consider when attaching the deck to the home include proper deck height, using drip caps, joists, attachment of the ledger and lumber choice. First of all, make sure the deck drops a minimum of two inches below the door so that there is space for drainage and so that snow melt can’t work under the threshold. Use drip caps to direct water to the outside of the ledger or siding so that water doesn’t penetrate behind the ledger and siding. Don’t use toenailed joists, use joist hangers to prevent joists from dropping or pulling away from the ledger board. Don’t use 16d nails as fasteners for securing the deck to the house, use lag screws and make sure the ledger is firmly anchored to the underlying rim joist with 1/2-inch x 4-inch lag screws. Finally, make sure you use wood that is treated to .40 or higher. Untreated lumber, even when painted, will begin to rot and deteriorate in just a few years.
We need to build a walkway along the side of our house. What do you suggest?
Gravel makes a great path for formal and informal gardens and is less costly than brick or slate. A gravel walkway also is fairly easy to build. Start by digging the path to a depth of at least six inches. Edge the path with vinyl or steel edging. Lay down landscape fabric to suppress weeds, then cover the fabric with three inches of sand, then three inches of 3/8-inch crushed limestone or washed pea gravel. Smaller stones like this make a path that is more dense, attractive, weed resistant and that is easier to walk on. Good luck!
I just built a new wood deck, now how do I keep it maintained?
New, untreated wood should dry for 30 days before you finish it, then use exterior finish only. Make sure you start with a clean surface. Varnishes and polyurethanes will crack and peel, while high oils and resins attract dirt, are susceptible to mildew and darken wood. Once the deck is treated, rinse it off every 60 days or so to remove dirt and grime and to help preserve the finish. Clear finishes generally deteriorate quicker and you should only paint the deck as a last resort. Establish a regular maintenance schedule for your wood, and if you see problems crop up, consult a professional for advice.
I have a crack in one of my bathroom tiles. What's the best way to fix it?
If you have cracked or broken tile, the underlayment often will be damaged, too. If the damaged tiles are in a high-moisture area, such as a shower, this is often the case. However, if only a single tile is chipped or broken and there is no apparent damage to the drywall underneath, the broken tile can be easily replaced
1. First, carefully dig out the grout surrounding the tile you want to replace. A special tool called a grout saw works the best, but if you don't have one, a utility knife is a good substitute.
2. After the grout has been removed, break the tile into several small pieces. You can break the tile by using a hammer and a nail set or chisel. Be sure to wear safety glasses to keep flying pieces out of your eyes.
3. Carefully pry the pieces of tile out and clean off any additional grout and adhesive with a putty knife; be careful not to dig into the drywall underneath. Examine the drywall or underlayment to make sure that no water damage has occurred. If it has, then it will need to be replaced. If there is no damage, then remove all debris and make the surface as clean as possible.
4. Take the replacement tile and apply an even amount of adhesive to the back. Apply enough adhesive so that the new tile will be flush with the others. You want it to be as level as possible with the other tiles. If possible, use the type of adhesive that was used on the original tile.
5. Press the tile into place and wipe off any adhesive that has oozed through the joints. If you are replacing a tile on a wall, tape it in place until it dries. Otherwise, let the adhesive completely dry. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying time.
6. Grout the area around the tile. With a little job like this, consider purchasing a small box of premixed grout that matches the color of your original grout. Use a grout float to work grout into the joints. If it's a small area, you can just use your finger.
7. With a damp sponge, shape the joints and wipe off any additional grout. If you have the time, consider regrouting the entire area. Although this makes the job more time-consuming, it will make the repair less noticeable.
8. If the repair tile is in the bathroom, let the grout thoroughly dry before using the shower.
I received some new power tools during the holidays and I would like a refresher on power tool safety. Do you have some tips?
1. Dress properly and wear the right personal protective equipment when using any power tool. Ideally, clothes should offer some protection. Don't wear lose clothing, rings or dangling jewelry. Pull long hair back. Use a facemask, if appropriate. Most importantly, always wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from flying particles.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for the tool you are using and be sure to inspect your power tool each time you use it-make sure it is clean, that all moving parts operate freely, and the proper shield, guard and attachments recommended by the manufacturer are in place. Also, be sure blades are sharpened. Dull blades are dangerous and decrease tool performance.
3. Work in a well-lit area. It's important that you see what you're working on.
Practice good housekeeping. A neat and organized work area not only makes it easy to find blades and other small items you may have dropped, it can prevent accidents.
4. Never work in the rain, or in any other damp or wet area, risking the possibility of electrocution.
5. Remember to unplug power tools before you change blades or bits. To prevent cracked or frayed electrical cords, avoid carrying your power tool by its cord and don't wrap the cord around the tool to store it.
6. Young children and power tools are not a good mix. Keep children at a safe distance from your work area and your power tools.
I’m looking forward to using my grill as the weather warms, but I forgot to clean it before putting it away for the winter. What is the best way to clean it so I can be ready for my first barbeque?
Handy supplies for cleaning your charcoal or gas grill include warm, soapy water, a brass-bristle brush, a soft cloth, cotton swabs, toothpicks, sandpaper and, if available, the owner’s manual. For a charcoal grill use a wire brush and soapy water to remove baked-on grease and food. Sometimes this is easier to do if the grill is hot. Steel wool or sandpaper works best for any rust on the inside or outside of the grill. If you own a gas grill, you want to be sure that last year’s gas connection is still safe. Test the connections for leaks by brushing soapy water on them, and then turn on the gas. If bubbles appear or the distinctive ‘rotten egg’ smell of gas is present, turn off the gas and tighten the connections. Do the test again. If the bubbles or smell continues, shut off the gas and consult an expert. Next, turn off the gas tank and clean the burner ports with toothpicks and soak tubes in warm, soapy water. Grease can clog the burner’s gas ports and spiders and other insects can escape the winter cold by hiding in the gas tubes. Scrub the grill housing with a brush and soapy water, but be sure to cover gas openings beneath the control panel with foil to prevent corrosion. Rinse with a garden hose (and remember to remove foil when done). Finally, clean the briquettes and cooking grids. Unlike charcoal, the briquettes do not burn but transfer heat from the burner, leaving cooking grids coated with grease. Flip the briquettes so the greasy side faces the burner and place the grids in their usual place. Light the grill, close the lid and set the flame on ‘high’ for 15 minutes. The heat will burn the grease off the briquettes and grids. As a precaution against corrosion, charcoal grill grids can be covered lightly with cooking spray, but use liquid cooking oil (not an aerosol spray) on gas grills.
I have a deck and uncovered brick patio on the side of my house. Now that spring is here, the deck is looking a little dark and dingy and there are areas of moss and other buildup appearing on the patio. What is the best procedure to remove or kill the moss and dirt buildup? Should I use bleach and/or fungicide?
The first step to cleaning the deck and patio is to sweep off the surface dirt and debris from plants or trees. The best way to clean a wooden deck or control moss on a brick patio is to blow the dirt and moss away with a rented or purchased pressure washer capable of generating at least 1,500 pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure. If this doesn’t do the trick, then spray on an oxalic acid solution, which is what professional deck cleaners use, and let it sit on the section for about 30 minutes. You can spray it on with any garden variety sprayer. Oxalic acid is a naturally occurring acid that won’t hurt plants or fish. It’s still acid, though, so you should really wear eye protection and gloves when you use it. Next, use the pressure washer to get off all the grime (be careful with the higher pressure washers -- they can actually remove layers of wood if used incorrectly). You really shouldn’t use bleach because it eats away at the wood and can inhibit its ability to hold a seal. Fungicide will only drive the problem deeper into the wood, and sometimes you’ll see little black spots, which are really mildew spores, forming on the wood surface a few weeks later.
We're planning on remodeling our kitchen and would like to know in what order are installations, materials, etc. put in and torn out?
After you've made all of your choices and have the installation specifications for the products and materials you will use, you will need to discuss the schedule with your designer and/or contractor. They will change the installation order based on lead times and specifications on various materials.
A typical schedule would start with a complete tear-out, any structural modifications, installation of windows and doors, plumbing modifications, electrical modifications, drywall, tape and texture, painting, floor and underlayment (particle board), cabinet installation, countertops, plumbing and electrical top-out, floor covering installation, appliance installation, followed by a grand dinner party.
I have several questions about clearance heights of certain appliances, cabinets, etc. and basic countertop measurements (height, length, etc.). Is there somewhere
I can find these guidelines?
Yes, you can find a list of guidelines on NKBA's website (www.nkba.org) in the Consumer Workbook section under Online Remodeling Guide. However, you will need to follow the specifications of the manufacturer of any appliances being installed. Their standards could differ from any others, and you should also check your local code.
I have a large home with bedrooms on several levels. I'm concerned that if a smoke alarm goes off on one level of the house, that it might not be heard on other levels or in other areas of my home.
Is there a solution to this problem?
Several manufacturers of smoke detectors have introduced "interconnected" systems over the last year or so. These are wireless systems that are designed so that when one alarm sounds all of the alarms in the system will sound also, providing an earlier warning to fire danger.
You should install at least one wireless smoke alarm on every level of your home in every bedroom.You can replace an existing battery operated system with a battery operated interconnected, wireless system. If you have smoke alarms that are hard wired into your home, wireless AC powered units are available. Additional battery powered units can also be installed to work with a wireless AC system.
How do you repair an outside spigot that is dripping? When I turn the handle off as far as it will go, water continues to drip out of the spout.
Turn off the water that feeds the faucet. Remove the screw that holds the handle in place. You’ll see a nut that holds the stem. Remove the nut, grab the stem and pull it out. Take that to your local SBS and they will set you up with a new washer. Just do the reverse of before and there shouldn’t be any more drip.
I understand the benefits for programmable thermostats in homes with forced air heating systems. However, I have a hot-water boiler/radiation system in my home. I’ve been hesitant to install a programmable thermostat because of the thermal mass of the boiler system. That is, won’t it take more energy to keep bringing all the water back up to the temperature than to keep it constant?
If you are gone from your home for more than five hours at a time or asleep for eight hours, then turning down the system by 5 - 7 degrees will lessen your energy use and not add cost. The only issue is that with hot water you need to give it a little more time to get it back up to a specific temperature. So if you come home from work at 6 p.m. have it kick back up at 5 p.m.
I’ve heard of Universal Design but not sure what it is exactly. Now that we’re ready to remodel I’d like to learn more. Do you have some advice or an explanation?
Traditionally, the built environment has been designed for an idealized, able-bodied, non-elderly adult. Since that description fits less than 15 percent of our population, the result is environments, including kitchens and bathrooms, which create handicaps and barriers for the rest of us. Demographics, legislation, public awareness and personal experience are pressing us to examine the basic assumptions we have used in design, particularly in high function areas like the kitchen and bath.
The result is design that breaks the traditional molds and is more flexible and adaptable. It is accessible to or useable by all people, regardless of age, size or physical ability, as much as possible. This is Universal Design.
In terms of bath design, you will want to consider clear floor spaces sufficient for entering, closing the door and approaching each fixture. In addition, you’ll want support in the walls for grab bars to be placed as needed. The beautiful choices available today in fixtures make it easy to create this supportive environment attractively. For more extensive information, Universal Bathroom Planning is available from NKBA.
I really want to do my bathroom remodel right. What are some of the newer trends in bathroom products and ideas I should consider?
Because so many people are choosing to upgrade their bathrooms, the list of new products continues to grow. Some of the trends expected to make a big splash in 2007 include concrete and glass countertops. I have a friend who recently installed glass countertops over her bathroom vanities, and put strings of white lights in the top drawers. The lights reflect through the surface making for a warm, glowing look. Concrete is modern, practical and functional because it can take any shape and it’s not as costly as some other natural stone materials. Shower seating also is becoming increasingly popular in master bathrooms. You can even find heated shower seating for those cold Alaskan winter months. Faucets have come a long way and with all of the specialty finishes available today, it’s easy to coordinate with warm and natural bath colors. Chrome, brushed nickel and oil-rubbed bronze faucets also are abundant. Pedestal sinks bring graceful lines and exquisite detail to even the simplest of bathrooms and come in many styles and colors. If you’re replacing the tub, don’t just think rectangles. There are more than 400 shapes and styles of tubs on the market these days. One of the most innovative products I saw recently was the smart toilet seat. Keep a lid on the arguments on who left the seat up by installing a smart toilet like the Peacekeeper®, which flushes only when the lid is closed. Finally, think about some of the extras you might be able to include in your bathroom. Towel warmers, cool accent lights, scented candles, heaters and body spa systems are just some of the possibilities.
The grout between the tile in my bathroom is really starting to look old and dirty. What is the best way to clean it? Do I need to regrout, too?
Cleaning mold and mildew off of ceramic tile grout in the shower is probably the least favorite of all household cleaning tasks. Add soap scum and body oils to a shower that isn’t cleaned regularly and you’re looking at a hefty job. But there are some tips for making cleaning easier, and ways to ensure you won’t have to do this job too often. First, for cleaning, mix a ½ cup of ammonia, ½ cup of plain white vinegar and ¼ cup of washing soda and add it to a gallon of warm water. (Don’t ever mix bleach and ammonia). Using gloves and goggles, wash the shower thoroughly with the mixture. For tough stains, leave bleach on for up to 15 minutes, then scrub with a brush. To prevent the reoccurrence of mold and mildew, seal the grout with commercially available grout sealer that is water repellent and stops water from seeping into the cracks. Clear silicone waterproofing also can be applied to grout. Even the best grout sealer has to be reapplied every six to 12 months. For glass shower doors, try applying Rain-X, just like you apply it to a windshield (don’t spill any on the floor of the shower). You won’t get hard water or soap scum buildup on the glass and the glass walls will stay clean longer. If the grout in the shower can’t be cleaned successfully, it’s time to regrout. That involves removing the old grout with a power tool, cleaning, disinfecting and applying new grout. This is a job that many people leave to the professionals, although you can do it yourself.
Winter is right around the corner. Are there a few simple things I can do myself that will help prepare my home for colder weather?
Yes. There are many things you can do now, before the chilly weather sets in, and you don’t have to be super handy to complete them. Here’s a checklist:
Heating System – Clean or replace filters in forced air heating systems. If you have hot water baseboard heat, have a professional check all valves and pumps.
Hoses – Before the first freeze, drain water from all exterior faucets and pipes. Store the hose in the garage if possible, so any water left inside won’t freeze and ruin the hose.
Windows & Doors – Check paint on sashes and frames and repair or replace caulking, weather-stripping and glazing around the glass, as needed. If insulated glass fogs, replace it.
Fireplace – Make sure the damper works and the chimney draws. Get the flue cleaned, if needed.
Gutters & Downspouts – Clean the gutters and downspouts before the first snow. Clogging can cause ice dams, leaks and even roof damage. If you have snow-melting cables on the roof, check them for damage and repair as needed.
Thermostat – Lower your thermostat by just one degree F and reduce your heating bill by up to 2 percent. Sixty-eight degrees is a good target temperature for the day, and lower the thermostat at night. Also lower the temperature if you won’t be home during the day or when you go on vacation.
Draperies – Open drapes in cool weather to let the sunshine in during daylight hours to help warm the house. Close them at night to help retain heat. Keep drapes away from heat registers, so the warm air has a chance to circulate through the house.
Vacations – Take the time to unplug small and large appliances not needed before you leave home. Turn the water heater to its lowest setting.
I always see and read advertisements saying that I should have my air ducts cleaned in my house to prevent the spread of infection and to ensure a clean home. Is that true?
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) actually does not recommend air ducts be cleaned in homes, except on an as-needed basis. There is general uncertainty about the benefits of duct cleaning. If someone in your household is having problems with allergies or unexplained illness then it might be warranted. But if you look at the inside of the ducts and don’t see any large balls of dust or mold, cleaning probably isn’t needed. It’s normal for the return registers to get dusty because air is pulled through the grates contains dust. A little dust on the registers or grates is not an indicator of contamination or debris, it’s pretty normal. Just vacuum the registers or remove them and clean them with soap and water. If you do choose to have the air ducts cleaned, make sure it’s done right so that you don’t end up with air quality problems. Some problems that can be caused from cleaning include using an inadequate vacuum collection system that actually releases more dust, dirt or contaminants than you had before. Poorly trained duct cleaners also can damage the ducts or heating systems that could result in difficult or costly repairs or replacements. The EPA has two free publications that can help you in making air duct cleaning decisions. The publications include Indoor Air Quality: An Introduction for Health Professionals and The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality can be downloaded at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html.
