Replacing Patio Doors
Many people have entry or patio doors in their homes that are the original unit installed when the house was built. If that is the case, chances are that one or more of several things may be true. First, it’s not a very elaborate or decorative door. Second, it probably has sustained more than its share of use and abuse through the years, with dings and dents from the kids and general deterioration from hard use. Weather and movement of the house may have resulted in the door not opening and closing properly, sticking in summer and leaking air in the winter. Weather may also have deteriorated the appearance of the door, or even caused damage to the floor underneath. Or maybe, as with a lot of the motivation for home remodel projects, you’re just tired of the old door and want a new one.
In any case, it’s possible to replace an existing door with one of similar size easily, and with a larger unit with some additional work. Both of these projects are within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer with some tools, time and basic carpentry skills. I’ll describe the process in three parts; first, deciding on a new door system, checking for adequate space and ordering the new door; second, removing the old door and preparing the new opening and; third, installing the new door system and trimming it out properly.
Selecting a New Door System
Replacing a door isn’t always as easy as it sounds. Whether you are replacing a 36˜ entry door, or a 5- foot wide patio door, staying with the same size door is easiest, from a construction standpoint. However, the opening required by one manufacturer’s door and another’s may vary by a couple of inches, particularly in patio doors. This may not seem like a significant number, but even a couple of inches difference in rough opening width may mean some serious structural carpentry.
Entry doors generally all have the same standard rough opening, or very close to it. If the existing rough opening will accommodate the new door, the replacement process becomes much simpler. Check the existing rough opening size by removing the casing on the inside and measuring from stud to stud for width and from floor to the bottom of the header for the height. Check this dimension against the new door’s specs.
If, however, you want a larger door, say a six-foot patio door instead of a 5-footer, or an entry door system with one or two sidelights, you will need to alter the wall framing around the opening to accommodate the new door system. SBS’ millwork shop will provide a single set up unit- Òprehung˜ is the industry term. To install the door, prepare an opening of the proper size, set the unit in place and trim. This way, the installer isn’t involved in actually hanging the door in the jamb or installing the sidelights separately. Most of the work will be involved in altering the opening in the exterior wall to accept the new door, and trimming out the newly installed assembly.
First, before demolishing anything, measure the area and make sure you have enough room to install a wider door or door/sidelight system. If the job involves a new door and frame, add 2˜ to the width of the door for the inside dimension of the new rough opening. Then allow an additional 3˜ on each side for the king and trimmer studs to support the new header, so a total of at least 8˜ more than the nominal width of the new door. For example, a 36˜ wide door would require a minimum of 44˜ to work. If a new sidelight or two is added, get the rough opening size from your millwork supplier, then add the 3˜ for framing on each side to the rough opening to see if you have enough room.
When ordering the new door, the supplier will want to know:
1. Hinge or door swing - draw a diagram since there are two opposite conventions for calling out right-or left-hand door swings. Both are used in Anchorage, so a picture will clear up the confusion.
2. Jamb size or wall thickness - measure your old door frame to determine this size. Don’t include the thickness of interior and exterior trim. For example, a 2x4 wall with T1-11 siding outside and 1/2˜ plasterboard inside requires a 4-5/8˜ jamb.
3. Type of lock - when selecting a new lockset or lockset and deadbolt, the shop can drill holes for you. This will save lots of time.
4. Exterior trim - 2˜ brickmold is a standard trim. Have this attached at the shop or supplied loose, or left off altogether if you have another exterior trim in mind.
5. Door style - there are lots of different styles and materials to choose from. Wood, steel and fiber glass doors, with or without lights (windows), and even more sizes and styles of lights.
Once all these decisions have been made and the door is ordered, schedule the demolition and installation. Since you don’t want an opening in your house for any longer than absolutely necessary, I recommend not starting until the door is delivered. You may still have to board up the opening overnight, but you’ll know you can finish quickly if the door is in the garage rather than promised for tomorrow.
